Melting Pot

Photo Credit: Trevor Dykstra
http://www.flickr.com/photos/architecturegeek/8201437585/

"No immigrant will ever be truly Japanese."

This statement sits in the in the back of every foreigner's mind in Japan.  We've all read it, heard it, and thought about it numerous times while preparing for the move or settling in here.  How ignorant and arrogant must these people be?

We come from a different world.  The United States was founded on the ideal of freedom. At least that's we are taught to believe. Regardless of the measure of truth in the previous statement, the US today is populated my millions of people fitting every size, shape and color category imaginable. This wide range has created more than its fair share of problems through the country's short history, but is, either way, characteristically American. Modern European societies are facing similar trends as the heterogeneous wave sweeping through their traditionally homogeneous borders grows. Other than Iceland (ground zero for gene studies), I don't think I have ever witnessed or will again experience a country seated so far toward the other end of the spectrum. Japan is starting to change along with the rest of the world, but is still well over 90% Japanese* and grasping firmly onto that statistic.

In my neck of the woods, there are large numbers of Brazilian and Peruvian immigrants living in Japan on strong long-term visas so that they may work in the various factories and plants in the area. However, this agreement only extends to those with measurable Japanese lineage. There are also many Chinese and Thai short-term workers in neighboring cities. In the whole of Japan, it is Koreans who hold the number 2 spot. However, children of Korean families often attempt to appear as Japanese as possible and raise their children as such. I have been told to avoid greeting Korean parents in their native tongue so as not to highlight them as different. Recently, I was told about a Japanese soccer player who fought to play for his home nation, but was met by some aggression because of his Korean lineage.

Don't get too heated up just yet, as such cases should not be taken out of context. It's easy to get angry here, but as a visitor, it is your responsibility to find the context in which such statements are made. You'll often hear "naive" as the leading adjective used to describe the Japanese population as a whole and, while I disagree, I recognize the validity of the description from a western point of view. As in most cases, most Japanese people aren't trying to offend you.

Just this morning, I received a package. The delivery woman and I exchanged the customary pleasantries and then she, as with all other deliveries, attempted to say my last name.

"Cocoa, Cocoia, Cockeea..."

I've met a few people who can pronounce it correctly in Italian, but next to none capable of stumbling into the strange Americanized phonetics used by my family. I demonstrated for her and then went on to explain its origins. "I'm Italian," I told her. She then asked me if I had ever studied English in my home country. I explained to her that I am American but my family is Italian. "Kakoii (cool!)," she replied, "Italian and American."

This isn't the first time I've had such a conversation. In the US, people ask any person they come across with a unique last name where it comes from. In Japan, usually in class, at city hall, or when I receive deliveries, I explain my heritage in typical American terms. Given my miserable Japanese skills, such misunderstandings may very likely be my fault. However, I see too much of a pattern to ignore. I believe that traditional homogeneity has left the language and culture without a proper way to describe a person of mixed lineage. When I say I am "Amerika-jin," I am literally saying "America person." When I then say "Italia-jin," it essentially sounds like I am countering the previous statement by saying I'm an Italian person. The term Italian-American seems contradictory when I explain it to my students as there is no word for Japanese-Japanese or Korean-Japanese either. This is shocking for someone who grew up in Southern California or any part of America for that matter, but incredibly interesting. Those of you who decide to travel here will be lumped into categories and eventually will find one you don't fit into. Don't be offended. It's natural to draw conclusions based on the only information you have available to you. When you realize that the average Japanese person is only connected to the west by popular culture, it makes more sense.

Aren't all Americans white or black like Brad Pitt and Beyonce?
All Americans are overweight and eat hamburgers everyday.
All American girls look like Gossip Girl.
I know California. I watch The OC and Laguna Beach.
Do you drive a Hummer?

For the same reasons, most of us are disappointed when we get off the plane and don't see geisha, ninja and samurai running around in sushi bars and zen gardens. Such realizations and chances to bridge cultural misconceptions in both directions are what keep me so intrigued by my surroundings even as the unique becomes ordinary. The popular statement that no immigrant will ever be Japanese is made more simple and less offensive. Immigrants, regardless of time spent in Japan, language skills, or social standing, will never be "Japanese" because they are, in fact, not Japanese.


*Peoples of the World: A Guide to Cultures. 
Wade Davis & K. David Harrison
National Geographic-2nd Edition, 2008.

Central Japan International Airport

Central Japan International or Centrair is the third busiest airport in the country and one of the three world-famous designs in Japan build on artificial islands. The first of the group, Kansai International, is featured on various engineering documentary programs in the US such as Megastructures and Engineering Marvels. Tokyo found it difficult to find space for an upgraded airport when planning for Haneda's replacement became necessary. It was decided that Narita, a rural community surrounded by rice fields, was the most realistic option. However, the airport spent quite some time empty and surrounded by security while the government dealt with angry farmers. By the time Kansai (Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe) felt the same strain on their urban airports, it was clear a land-bound airport plan as to be avoided. Thus began the island building. Nagoya chose to follow the design plans of Kansai when the city outgrew Komaki Air Force base. All the former airports are still used today, however mainly for domestic flights.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chubu_Central_Airport_aerial_view.jpg

Picture Feed

I've agreed to start using Instagram for travel writing purposes. Search for username 'sefusensei' if you'd like to follow.

Shiuga Bolu

I was surprised to find Japanese post-game analysis of the Sugar Bowl. This dynamic duo kept me entertained more than John Madden ever has.

Pot Throwing, Eel Munching, Shrine Hopping, Art Judging

A few photos from a recent weekend trip to Nagoya for pottery, unagi (eel, or "complete self-awareness" if you're a Friends fan), shrines, and a gigantic local art expo.

Unagi-don

Slicin'. Grillin'

Old and New

A reminder never to take a "dark" turn, or a left

Where Should I Go?

There are defined groups of foreigners living in Japan. I'm sure this is the same in most foreign countries, but it's a bit of an inside joke within the community here.

1. The Prepared
These are the people who have prepared themselves for years. They've studied Japanese through high school and college, memorized kanji, read Japanese literature, and can tell you about various battles between noble families during the Japanese feudal period. They are prepared to find their ideological version of Disneyland when they exit Narita International and mold seamlessly into Japanese society, find a wife, and surrender the Mr. title to live as ____-San in the suburbs or mountain villages until the end of their days.

2. The Fanatics
A large portion of my fellow gaijin fall into this category. They love anime, ninjas, katana, karate, J-Pop and karaoke (usually in Japanese). They read every hiragana or katakana sign they see out-loud and are fueled by photos of neon lights and arcades they find on Tumblr and Kill Bill . Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya are the Meccas for these travelers. Most speak Japanese well and easily find their niche among the like-minded, but rarely stay for more than a few years.

3. The Idealists
This group is very pleasant to be around. They may or may not have planned to land in Japan at some point, but have always admired Eastern philosophy. This country is a place of solace; a place to escape the corruption and selfishness of their home countries. You'll find these people in rural areas, Kyoto, Nara, and other locales where tradition and honor remain strong parts of local culture. They see beauty everywhere and seek deeper meaning in all their experiences. Strength comes from shrines, temples, zen gardens and The Last Samurai .

4. The Wanderers
This small group of people are the globe-trotters. They've visited 165 countries and are in Japan for a short time to experience something different before moving along to their next exotic locale. They usually get along with everybody else and try not to step on any toes while they're here. After all, they aren't passionate about Japan in particular and are happy to admit that groups 1-3 are far more knowledgable. They'll pick up some of the language, just because they think it's fun or they want to be polite, travel extensively, and then quietly move along after a generally pleasant stay.

5. The Opportunists
These individuals have found themselves here for other reasons. Sometimes it's a job opportunity, the strong currency, or a significant other living in the area. Their reactions to Japanese life vary greatly from person to person. Some will migrate into another category over time, some will become cynical as the "microaggressions" (see previous post) grind them down over time, and some will eventually open a language school or import business and settle down.


When deciding whether or not Japan is right for you, it's important to consider the country's many faces. Everybody comes here with some notion of what they expect to find and all will be disappointed in some ways and thrilled by others. Think about which category you fall in so that you can find the best location for your taste. That will make or break your experience. Big cities feel like big cities and offer little of what groups 1 and 2 might be looking for. Small towns and villages have held more tightly to their ways, and offer an experience more tightly bound with the country's traditional past. Doing research online will help, but take advantage of any opportunity you have to talk to people in the country to get a feel for where you best fit in.

Halloween!

Here is a glob of photos from Halloween week.  Every year, we wear costumes, play games, eat snacks, and make Halloweeny kinda stuff to spread the joy of this, otherwise, unknown holiday.  Costumes are tough to find here, so you'll notice that most of the kids have found them at Disneyland.  You'll also notice that "scary," or kowai plays no role in the Japanese image of Halloween.  As with all other aspects of life, everything must be kawaii, or rather "aah, kawwwwwaaaaiiiiiiiii" (cute).

Diplomacy

 Pumpkins, at least as we know them, are all but impossible to find in Japan.  Japanese cuisine uses a ton, but they are itty bitty little things.  We were able to mail order one for one of my adult classes that really wanted to try their collective hand at Jack O'Lantern making.

Not bad ladies