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Friday, August 22, 2014

A high price to pay for a little peace of mind | The Japan Times

Here's a beautifully written and bluntly honest portrayal of the darker side of a foreigner's day to day life in Japan published in The Japan Times, a bilingual newspaper usually known for its cliche topics and light tone.  Please take the time to read.



A high price to pay for a little peace of mind | The Japan Times

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Listen

Every traveler knows there are some things you can’t share.  It’s impossible to describe a moment, a dish, an experience, or place that makes you feel you’ve been living your life in black and white.  I’ve visited more than a few countries and have had my share of said revelations, but it’s been a while.  As fascinating as Japanese life has been to witness first-hand,  it hasn’t provided me with traveler’s ecstasy as often as I would have liked.  Sure, I love this place.  I love the festivals, the food, the way people treat each other, the train system, the convenience stores, the comfort, and most of all my job but there is something that feels shallow.  The only simile I can think of to describe the hole is that it’s like a hotel luau in Hawaii.  At some point during the show, you realize there aren’t any locals there.  You’re surrounded by middle-aged men in floral shirts bobbing back and forth while nibbling on mainland-friendly recreations of dishes that were, at some point, a legitimate staple in Hawaiian cuisine but have since been replaced by Japanese rice and McDonald’s pancakes.  The islands are modern, and modern is familiar.  

Japan is a lot like that.  The ancient temples you come to see were all built in 1986, rebuilt in 2002 for the World Cup, and will be redone again in the coming years for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.  The geisha you pass in Kyoto are visitors from Missouri and New South Wales in face paint and costume.  It all feels a little bit disappointing, like seeing the Eiffel Tower on the Vegas strip or walking around the international section of EPCOT at Disney World.  

This isn’t only Japan.  The Great Wall of China is covered in bricks dated the same year I was born and it takes about 2 days in Shanghai to realize it’s just an exotic Atlantic City with some interesting history to talk about over dinner.  Very few developed countries have been able to retain the historical and cultural “authenticity” that travelers expect when they arrive.  London looks nothing like what we imagine when we read Sherlock Holmes, Japan isn’t like the Last Samurai or Memoirs of a Geisha (both filmed in New Zealand), and Athens is a sprawling modern metropolis filled with pollution and traffic.  Buildings fall down and are replaced, cities are updated according to safety regulations and streets are widened to accommodate Hummers.  Very few destinations look like what you’d expect when you read tour books and that doesn't mean they can't still be great.  

People around the world are very much the same.  They aspire, dream, romanticize, eat, sleep, and go to work every day.  They worry about money, care for their children, and enjoy their down time.  No matter where you go, laughter, good food, and a bit of beer are the best tools to tear down barriers between individuals.  Japan is no exception, and that’s why I’m still here.  My life isn’t much different than what it would have been had I chosen to teach in another country, but it’s comfortable.  I drive to work, speak with friends, swim at a sports gym every morning, go out to dinner at air-conditioned Italian restaurants, drink Coke, watch American TV at night, and sleep on a normal bed.  The Hollywood image has been shattered, but I think that’s a good thing.  Without the veil of romanticism, a traveler is able to benefit from the intricacies of a culture that do make it interesting and unique.  Japanese drivers stop to let strangers cross the street or pull of out driveways, apologize when being apologized to, provide unrivaled service, and sacrifice their own comfort for that of their neighbors or coworkers.  Whether or not you agree with and choose to adopt such behaviors is irrelevant.  You benefit from having experienced an alternative way of going about daily life.  The sights nearly always disappoint, but people won’t.  Even the aggressive (both passive and active), prejudiced, or overly fanatical provide an insight into not only their culture, but your own.  


I tire of discussing stereotypical interpretations of Americans and the way we live based on Gossip Girl and The O.C.  We don’t eat hamburgers every day, we don’t all look like David Beckham and Tom Cruise, we don’t pack heat at the grocery store, and we most definitely do not prey on the shy Japanese people as a means of reaffirming our post-war control.  Listen to people as they explain their images of you and your country.  Listen to the third party interpretation of international events and the outsider’s perspective on problems like firearm control and drug trafficking.  It can be eye opening and, if nothing else, entertaining.  I’m four and a half feet taller than Tom Cruise, two decades younger, and blonde but it makes me laugh to see a shocked person’s face as they look at me and say “Tomu Kuruzu (or Dabidu Bekamu) mitai.”  Fight the cynicism, open your eyes and take advantage of the chance you have to be a bridge between two different approaches to living the same life.  

Saturday, April 5, 2014

You Know You've Been in Japan Too Long When...

You know you've been in Japan too long when...

1. You throw peace signs up for every picture.

2. You visit the convenience store 3 or 4 times a day.

3. You wave your hand in front of your face to indicate a "no" and nod a single time for "yes."

4. You bow when thanking someone over the phone.

5. You buy a present for someone just because they bought you one.

6. You fill your entire suitcase with cheap sweets when you go on a trip to pass out when you return.

7. 60kph in a car feels REALLY fast.

8. You can navigate a city's (especially Tokyo's) subway without freaking out.

9. Sticking 2 or 3 tickets into the machine when getting on a train makes sense.

10. You pass gorgeous temples and shrines everyday and don't look up to enjoy them.

11. You've accepted that binge drinking at least once a week into your 60s is inevitable unless you develop an "allergy" to alcohol.

12. You pronounce Japanese words correctly when speaking English. For example: karaoke, teriyaki, and karate (te, not tee) instead of carry-okee, terri-yeah-kee, and car-ah-tee.


Saturday, January 4, 2014