Culinary Endeavors

Kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi)

Grilled Oranges

和 - Harmony

One of my favorite college professors was a brilliant man of Vietnamese heritage.  He was infamous around the government and international relations departments for his ability/need to challenge everything anybody else stated as unproven fact.  This made him a fairly unpopular person to be around.  However, what one came to realize after spending time with him is that he was always right.  No matter the topic, the man could punch holes in any argument or line of logic and make the speaker retract everything they had sworn to only a few minutes before. 

For this reason, there were always open spots in his classes.  It’s almost as if university students in sweat pants had no motivation to be shot down every time they sought to offer an opinion fueled more by a half-baked attempt to earn participation points than the drive to grow as intellectuals.    This professor made it a point to never show video, use PowerPoint presentations, or require reading.  He never followed a timeline or discussed textbook explanations of historical leaders or wars.  What he did do was lecture, lecture, discuss, and lecture.  If I’ve yet to scare you away from Hall of Letters room 319 thus far, the man had a thick accent that many students couldn’t understand.  Yet, year after year, I browsed through his available classes first when registering every semester.  Each was identically structured: Intro to World Politics, Asian Relations, American Foreign Policy, Chinese Politics, etc.  There were no required readings, no quizzes, and no homework.  Only an essay-question based midterm, final, final paper, and paper topic presentation were required.  Day one of every class was his introductory to criticism.  What started out like your run-of-the-mill “I’m Seth, I’m a sophomore from California….” quickly turned into a logical crushing of your childish dreams.  The teacher would question future plans, career aspirations, and goals to the point that we would leave class completely clueless about what we wanted to do and where we wanted to do it.  Each year, my intro would be very different.  Finally, senior year in American Foreign Policy, I spoke about a desire to travel and live foreign cultures rather than just experience them from a tourist’s perspective.  He smiled a bit and returned with question that I have always remembered, “Isn’t it true that all people are the same?  Don’t all people have the same simple aspirations, fears, and anxieties?”  In a panicked attempt to appear like I had at least minimal brain function, I replied with some kind of disagreement, hopelessly looking for him to give a little ground so that I could hold on to some kind of romantic view of my future.  He made a joke about becoming a spy and I returned a “who wouldn’t want to be James Bond?” kind of remark.  He smiled again and moved on.  Having escaped relatively unscathed, I considered the class to be a victory for me and my newly discovered dream.

When I started traveling, especially in the Far East, I often thought about this professor’s lessons, theories, and models.  However, never once did this particular exchange cross my mind until I entered Japan.  Europe and the Americas share so much history and culture that the minds of its citizens are also very similar.  There are drastic differences between Europeans, Canadians, and Americans but my argument here is more about logic, emotion, and language than opinions and political beliefs.  What makes Asia so much different is, for lack of a better word, everything.  Using this word may seem like I’m taking the easy way out but is, instead, stating a fact.  Every small aspect of life here is different.  I’ve discussed this all before in previous posts.  What I’ve yet to touch on is the difference in how the mind is wired.  Having developed completely independent of one another, the Western and Eastern conscious took very different paths.  Not only are sentences structured in different order, but so are arguments.  Japanese logic and thought processes feel frustratingly circular to a Westerner raised in an aggressively direct society.  Complaints are almost always taken to third party as a means of avoiding direct conflict with a coworker, criticism is almost never shared directly, and personal questions are asked in a “beat around the bush” fashion.  What those from our side of the world may see as spineless, are actually just ways to keep the wa intact.  Wa the Japanese word for “harmony,” and its recognition is essential to understanding why this country is the way it is.

In the name of wa, the Japanese focus is on protection of the community.  Rather than working to stand out from the crowd by speaking loudly, directly, and firmly, this culture stresses the importance of blending in so all effort can be focused either inward or toward collective advancement.  The emphasis is on the quality of your neighbor’s experience rather than your own.  People this thoughtful are eaten alive in American public places.  Friends take advantage, strangers push in front of, and the kind-hearted is forced into a life in the back seat.  This isn’t a concern here for one reason: friends and strangers are living their lives the same way. 

Though noticeable almost everywhere, the two clearest examples for me came in two environments in which I have the most experience: the road and the basketball gym.  Sports are naturally competitive.  This is why they are fun.  For many, athletic competition is a modern version of gladiator warfare through which they can express frustration, anger, fear, and testosterone buildup in a socially acceptable manner.  This is no different here in Japan.  My basketball club is aggressive and competitive.  What most shocks me, though, is how teammates and opponents treat each other.  It’s no surprise to see flying batting helmets, swinging fists, cramped penalty boxes, or questionable tackles in American sports.  Tantrums are a part of watching the NHL, NBA, NFL, and MLB.  In Japan, there is less of a need for such outbursts.  Every time I feel myself getting frustrated during basketball drills or games when I miss a simple layup or turn the ball over, I’m stopped by a teammate’s kind reassurance or pat on the back.  I’m still taken back every time it happens.  The atmosphere is just as competitive as one has come to expect, but with an undertone of positivity.  When surrounded by this web of support, one can only feel a need to return the favor. 

Secondly, as any Californian (or any American for that matter) knows, the road is a terrifying place.  We are all taught “defensive driving tactics” in traffic school, but throw them out the window as soon as out picture is printed on our driver’s license.  In Japan, the unique collective approach extends onto the highways as well.  Cars waiting at driveways will always be allowed to turn out, slower drivers will pull aside to let others pass (not because they are annoyed, but because they feel bad about holding you up), pedestrians are allowed to cross, and speed limits are very low.  What is most wonderful about each of these experiences is that the driver giving way will always be thanked with a bow of the head.  Even when driving with American hip-hop music blaring, you are constantly reminded of where you are on the globe.

My professor in college may have been correct about “aspirations, desires, fears, and anxieties,” but by no means is that a reason not to travel.  Japanese people, like all others in the world, desire enough money to live comfortably, fear losing family or friends, and stress about a busy work schedule.  However, no visitor here will leave without being touched by these people and their unique social philosophy.  My teacher was, perhaps for the first time it seems, wrong.  Three and a half months into my adventure across the Pacific, I can already feel the effect this country will have on who I become in the future.

Tots Class (Ages 4-5) in Fujimidai, Toyohashi

Annyeong Haseyo, Ch'oum Poepgetsumnida

While planning my trip, I had no idea what to expect from Seoul.  Like most Westerners, I sometimes overlooked Korea as I planned my perfect holidays through Japan, China and Southeast Asia.  South of the world’s most fortified border, Americans news agencies have very few dramatic stories to pursue.  As a result, many people simply forget about the Republic of Korea.  Without a communist regime in power or a historical clash as iconic as Pearl Harbor, Hiroshima, Iwo Jima, or Nagasaki, there is very little reason for American history books to discuss the South.  Even the Korean War is far too often overshadowed by Vietnam.  Growing up, the only knowledge of the Korean conflict we talked about in school was its importance in the development of jet aircraft. 

I can completely understand why Koreans would feel a need to assert themselves.  Not even the spectacular cuisine has traveled as well as its Japanese and Chinese counterparts.  As common as it is for Americans to pass up on traveling to Seoul in favor of Tokyo, Beijing or Shanghai, it doesn’t mean that isn’t a mistake.  I enjoyed every minute of my time here and feel a new-found appreciation and love for a culture that, just a week ago, I knew very little about. 

As I said before, the two most common adjectives used to attempt to sum up the city are “vibrant” and “energetic.”  While somewhat generic, these are very accurate descriptions.  The city is as fast-paced as I’ve ever experienced.  Not a single urban area in Europe or the Americas can compare.  This may be because of the uniquely Korean touch that is, sometimes, the only thing that reminds you that you’re not in New York or Chicago.  In many ways, Seoul seems like an American city.  Any visitor that chooses to stay in an upscale urban hotel in the more internationally minded Gangnam or Jongno districts will immediately feel at home.  For me, it was the fact that I could buy Gatorade and Goldfish crackers to enjoy every day.  You’ll find multiple Cold Stone, Burger King, Taco Bell, and even Papa John’s chains in various parts of the city.  You’ll be greeted with a casual “hey” when you walk into a 7-Eleven and even enjoy a little small talk at the register.  At first, this might be a little disappointing to some travelers.  However, if you spend a little more time in the city, you’ll soon realize that this isn’t because American business controls the city but is instead evidence of the very Korean pursuit of the capitalist ideal. 

After bright lights and busy traffic, the third thing you’ll notice when getting off your train or bus is that every Korean is connected to the internet.  There are very few people on the subway who aren’t listening to music, reading Facebook messages, or watching TV on their phone.  Tablets are also incredibly common.  However, unlike fast food chains, the phones and tablets are almost exclusively Samsung.  Apple may run the American market, but iPads are a rare sight in this city dominated by Samsung Galaxy.  EVERYTHING is Samsung.  Similarly, the crowded streets are filled with Hyundai and Kia cars, trucks, and buses.  In one week, I saw one Honda, three Chevrolets, no Toyotas, and no Fords.  Koreans are extremely proud of their domestic products.  A few days in Seoul makes Dianne Sawyer’s “Made in America” campaign look like a complete joke.  Korean products flood the market and are enthusiastically mopped up by millions of willing consumers.

The ferocity with which these people have embraced commercialism will make your mind spin.  Before visiting, I read many sources that discuss the Korean obsession with material objects in a negative way.  Most people immediately comment on the importance of appearance, the popularity of cosmetic surgery, and the incredibly competitive work environment.  All three of these are very real parts of Korean life.  There were times I’d notice, what appeared to be, and life-size Korean Barbie doll on the subway television or overworked students sleeping on public transportation.  However, you’ll also begin to sense what drives this push for perfection.  It’s not a society built on torturing students and employees, but instead and surprisingly open-minded and optimistic city that is excited about what the future holds. 

No matter where you go in America these days, consumer confidence is low.  People discuss economic troubles in every bar, restaurant, and office in the most dreary way.  In Seoul, you notice small differences in the way people discuss financial troubles. 

“The economy isn’t that good right now, but…” or

“I don’t have a job right now, but…” and

“Even with the financial crisis, we still…” 

It’s incredibly uplifting to hear people speak like this.  What it seems like to me is that Koreans are relative newcomers to the capitalist game and still express that youthful optimism that has long exited American borders.  What is interesting is that this isn’t naivety.  In my opinion, the Korean population is much better prepared to overcome financial troubles than their Western counterparts.  These people trust the market as most of them benefit from memories of when life was very different.  Think of it as a young America, still in the first century of its existence.  Optimism would have been the driving force as America expanded westward and fought to keep its new-found independence alive.  Many Koreans still feel like they have finally emerged from the shadows of the more established powers that surround them.  Seoul, now, presents itself as a truly world class city and its Korean residents are excited to share it with visitors.  I can promise you that if you take the time to look beyond the bland architecture and cold weather, you’ll find an incredibly vibrant, warm, and somewhat addictive culture, cuisine, and populous that will make it very hard to leave.  

The Korean people are incredibly hospitable.  It’s difficult to put into words the extent to which your hosts will go to ensure you have a wonderful time.  What is most noticeable to foreigners is that it is very rude to allow a guest to pay for a meal.  The host will always pay.  Gender has no effect on this either.  Guys, your attempts to “be a gentleman” will be shot down.  It’s polite to playfully argue and show your willingness to pay and then sit back and accept that your host will sneak away and pay the bill before you leave the table.  Always say kamsahamnida to thank your hosts afterward.  Another important point to make is that Koreans LOVE to eat out.  Restaurants and street food are still relatively inexpensive here and big meals are a great way to entertain guests, enjoy friends and, when with a group of business men, simultaneously show that you can afford to entertain guests and enjoy friends. 

However, with Korean meals comes Korean soju.  This is a unique and surprisingly enjoyable alcohol that many men in this country consume like water.  Any current or former college frat guys reading this and puffing out their chests with excitement should be warned that Korean men have a special tolerance for this drink.  Any attempts to out-man them and relive your drinking glory days will end in your complete and utter humiliation.  Where westerners benefit is that Koreans never drink without huge amounts of food.  As it is considered rude for a visitor (especially a younger man) to refuse a drink when offered, I suggest you pound as much pork and rice as you can between pours and ask for numerous glasses of free water.  With a proper plan in place, you’ll survive many a gambei and will be able to direct the taxi driver to the correct hotel.

And now, finally, to perhaps the most underrated and spectacular thing about a visit to Korea: the food.  I love different types of food.  It’s not difficult for me to find a way to appreciate almost any taste or texture when it has some kind of cultural significance.  When it comes to Korean cuisine, no adventure is necessary.  Anyone will enjoy this food.  You might have heard that it may be a bit spicy and this is true.  Flavor is definitely a big part of Korean dishes.  However, this is by no means the norm.  The iconic Korean staple, kimchi, comes in endless varieties.  My personal favorite is made with Chinese cabbage, red pepper, vinegar, and salt.  This, clearly, has a bit of zip to it.  One of the great things about kimchi, though, is that any taste preference is addressed.  Many meals will include various types to choose from.  Another major part of Korean taste, sorry vegetarians, is meat.  Pork is to Koreans as fish is to the Japanese.  Again, as with spicy, a taste for meat is not necessary to enjoy a Korean meal.  Typically, a meal will consist of various communal dishes from which anyone is welcome to grab.  The standard rule is to never use your hands, unless you are wrapping meat and toppings into a leaf to make what I call a “Korean taco.”  It is normal to not finish all of the food that is ordered but, until you’re about to burst, you’re welcome to enjoy as much as you like.  Traditionalists will tell you to avoid starting or finishing before your elders, but I found that very few of my hosts stressed such rules.  Meals were much more about relaxed enjoyment than following strict protocols. 

All in all, I can’t wait to get back to Seoul.  Beyond all of the wonderful experiences I’ve already shared, I think what was so wonderful about my time there was how easy it was to meet new people.  Residents of the city were so welcoming and friendly that it surprised me on many an occasion.  Between pictures with strangers, chatting at 7-Eleven, and Korean lessons from cab drivers, I hope you’ll start to appreciate this fantastic city as much as I do now.

Thank you all for continuing to read.  I hope everybody has a wonderful 2012 and year of the dragon!

Visual Seoul

Lotte World

N Seoul Tower

Christmas in Myeongdong

Sejong the Great

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Gangnam-gu

Korean meal with friends